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Written in a hostel in Monmatre, Paris

[I’m going to have to post the most recent two days separately, but I wanted to get something up now.]

Lugging our gear was pretty much what I expected. We left Portsmouth with plenty of time, but we got off the motorway too early, and experienced the extended crawl that is London traffic, with the added “margin of time trickling away” thrill. But in the end there were no problems handing off the car; however, it started to rain, and the car drop-off point was not handily at a tube station, so there was a certain amount of wet trudging. Nevertheless, we eventually made it to King’s Cross, where Meredith dashed off for Amsterdam EuroStar train.

C’s brother wasn’t finished work yet, so we went and paid the exorbitant left luggage rates (eight and a half pounds per piece!), and then headed towards the British Museum. Margie pointed out that this would take us towards the excellent comic shop Gosh London, lair of the infamous Andrew. Margie hadn’t seen Andrew for eleven years, but they’d played together in a game run by Morgue, and that will mark a person. (I also know him well enough through Morgue to be a Facebook friend.) He was about to go to lunch, so we popped into Pret and chatted for a bit about London, babies and the state of the comics retail industry.

We then hied ourselves to the Museum to briefly scratch the surface of the Antiquities Wing, seeing things like the Rosetta Stone and the palace of Ashurbanipal (who may be familiar to some of you from the They Might Be Giants song, “We’re the Mesopotamians”). Then we hung around the front of the Museum waiting for Drifter to come and whisk Margie off to his flat (where she was going to crash), and then heading back to the flat, briefly stopping to grab some apple pie and ice-cream. This was our first experience of the Tube in the (tail end of) rush hour traffic; feeling the Tube doors ruffle your hair as they shut just above your head can be a bit alarming.

The next day we decided to have a bit of a rest and reorganise, and then met Margie at Boroughs Market (where we encouraged Margie to eat a giant German hot-dog); we then walked to London Bridge, and then along the waterfront to Tower Bridge, stopping and admiring the Tower of London. We then went back to the flat and met C’s brother (who we shall call… D), and headed out to Soho/Chinatown to find some dinner.

We walked for a long, long time – it turned out that D’s partner (K) is an essential component of the food-place decision-making process, and she was having work drinks. Luckily, she was able to meet us, and (after a bit more wandering and a surprise tuktuk ride) dinner was had. This was followed by a late-night visit to M&M world, and then we walked through Piccadilly Circus. (And then we tried to catch the Tube home, along with, it appeared, all of Piccadilly Circus.)

The next day the partners decided that this would be C & D’s day to do their duty for their mother. I should explain – their mother had spent many of her formative years in Putney, living in a lovely house among many other lovely houses while her father did diplomatic-type things. We were under strict instructions to take C & D there; to go to the Green Man pub (which had been her “regular”); and most importantly, to take plenty of photos. And so plenty of photos were duly taken, with only minor rebellions on the part of the siblings. The pub was very, very good, and I believe D & K have plans to return. I also discovered the joy (and danger) of good alcoholic ginger beer.

We were meant to go to a barbecue at a cousin’s place; since there was a two-month-old baby that C had not met, we wanted to take her a present. And because she has a three year-old brother, we wanted to take him a present, to stop him being jealous. Picking a present for a baby was relatively straightforward, but the three year old caused us some dithering – we knew he had a Thomas the Tank Engine obsession, but didn’t want to get him something that he already had. We eventually selected a yellow digger that looked like it might fit a small train in it’s maw; he later took it to bed with him. Present success: achieved.

The next day we decided to go to the Tower of London with D & K. The Tower Guards who give the tour are all ex-Sergeant Majors, and have been since the Duke of Wellington’s day; this means that they are mostly men, have voices good at projecting to the crowd, and have an interesting range of experiences (one of them briefly mentioned guarding Rudolf Hess in Spandau Prison – Hess being one of the last prisoners to be held in the Tower, coincidentally). The crown jewels were as impressive as the line for them made them appear – a line which moved quite smartly, by-the-by. Almost all the regalia was post-Cromwell, since it all got sold off or melted down during his Protectorate; I suspect that this contributed to its impressiveness, since it would have been a show of the restored monarch’s legitimacy.

And the diamond in the sceptre is big. Really, really big.

There were also a whole bunch of oddities, like the crown that was made for Queen Victoria to go to India to be crowned with (which hasn’t been used since); they had hired jewels to be used in this (and some other crowns) when they were worn officially, and the jewels had been replaced by paste versions when we saw them.

We also went into the White Tower, which has exhibitions from the Royal Armoury. It’s interesting to see the different bits that they’ve managed to keep, and how different ages have regarded these sorts of artifacts – they showed a bird made out of bits of obsolete guns, for example, which probably wouldn’t happen now. (Well, apart from a dragon.) I also learned that livestock that falls off London Bridge still technically becomes property of the person who runs the tower. There was enough to see that we ended up losing D & K (who had to hurry off to do their weekly shop); in fact, we ended up being kicked out, as they closed soon after. We headed out to Camden to be shown around the Stables market and have a lovely Italian dinner and sorbet with Margie and Drifter. Plans were made to get to the station on time for our trip to Paris.

So the next day, we got up extra-early, fitting in showers between the different flatmates, and then it was off to Kings Cross/St Pancras again, handily beating the rush-hour. We had a restful breakfast at Pret, watching the passing travellers, and then soon after Margie turned up it was off to check into the EuroStar, where I dozed fitfully. We arrived at Gard du Nord, and then to the surprise of all (including myself), I successfully navigated us to our hostel. On the trek up to the fourth floor, we discovered that we have quite a nice view of Sacre Coeur, so we traipsed up for a visit. Except we remembered that we hadn’t had lunch, so we stopped on the way for some traditional French food (I had a croque monsieur and an Orangina); the service was not particularly fast, but the food was fine, and we negotiated the minefield of tipping adequately.

One of the things that I’ve noticed about the part of Paris that we’re staying in is that it feels a lot more feral than any of the places we visited in London. There are a lot more beggars, for a start, and a lot more scam artists – I was accosted by five or six. Some of them had fake petitions they want you to sign to occupy your hands while they pick your pockets, and the rest were “friendship bracelet” sellers, who were quite aggressive in wanting to tie the bracelet to your wrist – apparently they then demand 20 euro for this act of friendship. I actually had one touch me and demand whether I wanted to fight after I told him no twice; I told him, “Non!” louder, and kept walking.

There were other people with blankets with pull-strings on the corners (to more easily gather their wares and run if the police appear); the weird thing is not the terrible junk they’re selling (4 for 1 euro!), but that I noticed that the exact same junk was available from the local tobacco shop for 22c. Why they need a three-cent mark-up over a fixed retail store was unclear to me.

We looked at the view, and then looked back at the cathedral. I thought I told C that I’d just pop up to the Cathedral door to see if there were prices and/or opening times; unfortunately, she didn’t hear me, and I didn’t notice that they actually went into the cathedral. So I returned to where I thought they were… and they weren’t there, Meanwhile, C & Margie were walking through the cathedral, getting more and more annoyed that I was lagging so far behind, and that they weren’t able to find me. I hoped that they might have gone in (rather than wandered off somewhere else, or been kidnapped), but I decided that it was best to stay at the last place I saw them. It seemed like a long time before C appeared.

Then they kindly walked through the cathedral with me, so I could have a look at it.

Then it was down to brave the hawkers a second time, and back to the hostel where we were meeting Meredith & a friend of C’s who I’ll call… G. (I should really get around to getting permission to use names on this blog.)

Meredith hadn’t gone up Sacre Coeur, so we started traipsing up the hill again… but Margie, C & I decided to stop partway up, and admire the two-story carousel, and marvel at how many cigarette butts were in the grass we were sitting on.

We didn’t really want dinner, but G had some bread and cheese for us to help her eat. Then it was back up four flights of stairs, and to bed.

Written in a pub in Portsmouth

We’re going to have to hand the car back tomorrow, and the prospect of lugging around all the junk I’ve accumulated fills me with dread.

But I should start at the beginning.  We spent all of today traipsing around the Portsmouth Historic Dockyard, doing all the things that the website lists you being able to do.  I don’t have much to say about it, though I enjoyed it; I would say that once you’ve spent 21 pounds on getting in, you should probably spend the pound on the audio guide for the Warrior, since the signage is pretty minimal; but I knew a little bit about it from the 1632 series.

Margie didn’t accompany us; instead, she had her own adventures that she will no doubt write about on her blog.

This took up all of the day; we ended up rushing at the end, and didn’t get a good look at the museum. (We probably shouldn’t have done the harbour cruise; it was good to get off our feet, but it was an hour where we couldn’t go at our own pace.)

We’re giving our car back before midday in London, so a certain amount of reshuffling is going on, to allow us to carry our baggage in as few bits as possible.  We’ll probably end up paying the outrageous left luggage prices, since we won’t be able to meet up with C’s brother until the end of the day, and there’s a limited number of activities you can do in London while hauling round a huge backpack and small suitcase.  Meredith leaves for the tender mercies of Amsterdam, and Margie is staying on Jarrod’s couch; we will be back on the fold-out couch at C’s brother’s flat.  The band is breaking up; I wonder whether Paris will feel like a reunion?

Written in a Travel Lodge in Portsmouth

In the end, we didn’t manage to do very much of anything in Portsmouth, other than haunting the streets in an attempt to find our lodging. But I don’t regret anything, because we saw all sorts of cool stuff on the way.

C has wanted to see a standing stone, so our first stop was Avebury. We didn’t get to see everything (I want to go back and look at the museum), but it was the first chance that we’ve had to take advantage of our NZ Historic Places Trust memberships, and it was really worth it. The old st

The second chance we had to use our Historic Places memberships was for parking at Stonehenge. We didn’t go in, opting to stand behind the fence next to the road in the light drizzle, but you’re not able to get very close regardless. One of the things that struck us was how small the site was, compared to the cathedrals and monuments that we’d been seeing; but once the age of the place started to sink in, it gave a certain perspective. I could imagine going back for a proper look one day.

Our final tourist stop was Salisbury Cathedral. Once again, we managed to accidentally get caught up in a tour; this meant that we got to see things like the dip-stick they use through the floor to make sure that there is enough water in the ground underneath the cathedral (since if the ground dried out too much, the walls might shift even more than they have, and there might be an accident). It was interesting in a completely different was to the other two cathedrals we’ve seen – because they shifted the site where the town was in the 12th century, they were able to start from scratch, and because they finished building it incredibly fast (under 40 years), all the main features were in one consistent style. One of the guides speculated that the fact that there wasn’t any religious house associated with the Cathedral (no nunnery or monastry), they may have gotten off more lightly during the Reformation than other centres. Oh, and they have a working mechanical clock that was made in the 1300s, with all the mechanisms out on display. And one of the three copies of the original Magna Carta, which was… quite small, considering how important it ended up being.

We then headed into Portsmouth, where we were unable to find our accommodation until we gave up and asked a helpful barman; we then checked in, and popped into an Aldi to grab something to eat. It was… odd. Margie suggested that it was what it might be like if there was a supermarket that only carried Pams-brand products; and no-one seemed very happy to be there, including the staff. But we managed to scrape something together (cursing the fact that most places have no microwave or fridge – I had pot noodles), and then watched a bit of BBC news, chatted for a bit, and went to bed.

 

Written in a University of Bath hostel

After cleaning up the caravan, dropping off a thank-you card (and the dirty linen) at Meredith’s aunt, and saying hello and goodbye to other members of Meredith’s clan, we said a sad farewell to Wales, and were off on the road to Bath. This proved a bit of a shock to the system after the B roads and country lanes we’d been driving – Bath is a much bigger, bustlier, twistier city, and it took us some time to locate a supermarket, and even more time to get back to and into the car-park,

But we eventually made it, and picked up lunch and essentials, and then headed off to find somewhere green to eat it, which restored our spirits. We then ventured back into Bath, where we were met with a series of minor setbacks.

Firstly, we attempted to go to the Assembly Rooms, but we discovered that they were booked out for an event, and would be booked out tomorrow as well; we could go into the Octagon, but not any other rooms. So we looked at the sedan chairs and Bath chairs on display, and at the big chandelier… and decided against going down to the Fashion Museum.

Next, we went to the Jane Austen Center, where the staff are dressed up in something like period costume, which went a bit oddly with some hair-styles. The room where you waited for a tour was hot and stuffy, the talk mostly covered material I either knew or could have found on Wikipedia (and I am no great Jane Austen buff), and the displays themselves was quite slight; but Margie enjoyed herself, so it might be a case of horses for courses.

We then had a look at some of the slightly disorienting but impressive Bath architecture: it kept calling to mind a computer-game level, in that textures and structures seemed to be repeated incessantly. We then headed back in the direction of the car… at which point Meredith revealed that she was not completely sure the address we should be headed to. This lead to me walking with iPad in hand, looking for wi-fi hotspots and trying to match them with businesses. We soon found a coffee-shop (opposite the Pump Rooms), and C & I drank revitalizing juice while the two drivers examined maps and conspired.

Then it was off to the hostel to dump our gear, fluff about, and went back into town for the Roman Baths. Because it was a little later, most of the shops had closed, and the crowds had dispersed; in some ways, this is my preferred time to wander about these big cities, because you’re not so worried about being in the way of people who are trying to get things done. (It’s also a bit cooler.) When we got to the Baths, there was a bit of sticker shock – after the Jane Austen experience, we were wary about spending about $25NZD on something that might be rubbish. But I’m glad we took the chance, because it was actually very cool.

There was an audio-guide (with some comments by Bill Bryson), which supplemented the quite sparse signs with lots of detail. There were lots of aspects of Roman life covered, with a variety of tools – for example, they had some of the stonework up on the wall, and faded in and out a projection of what was missing, so you could see what was left, and what would have been there. And they showed how bricks were made, and how they made pewter objects, and how the They also projected actors as Romans going about their daily lives, translated gravestones showing how people came from all over the Empire to visit Bath, and the curses written on sheets of lead saying things like, “May Minerva cause the person who stole my cloak to die horribly.” Seeing the multiple levels, the Georgian buildings vs. the modern alterations, with the Roman baths below and the medieval cathedral soaring up behind… that was really cool.

We left fairly late, and were worried whether we’d find anything to eat; luckily, the place we got wi-fi at doesn’t turn off their wi-fi after they close, so we were able to find out that there was a late-opening Sainsbury; and then we took our spoils back to the hostel to microwave and devour. Then we retreated to our single rooms, aiming to get away nice and early…

 

Written in a caravan in Wales

I am sunburnt, and footsore, and it’s because of Wales.

We stayed at the Three Counties Motel in Hereford, which was uneventful (except for some sort of school ball, which we successfully avoided, and me locking us out of our room within 10 minutes of checking in). The rooms were in the process of being upgraded, which was why we were able to get a pretty good deal staying there; even so, it was a little annoying to traipse all the way into reception to use the slightly flaky wifi. (I know, I know, First World Problems.) But it made a good base to start exploring Hereford from, and the next day we started at the Cider Museum.

The Cider Museum was quite well done, in that I feel I have a much better understanding of how both still and champagne-style cider was made. One of the things it brought back to me was how much work went into a bottle of cider (or any other food), and how much mechanization has sped things up and made them easier/cheaper; and it made me wonder how much will have to change when petrol becomes super-expensive. Not that this was a focus of the museum; instead, I learned all about how you turn bottle-fermented champagne-style cider upside down and let the yeast sediment settle in the neck, and then freeze the neck, making a plug of ice that you pull out and replace with either syrup or cider. (I hadn’t ever really thought about the mechanics of how you’d get the yeast out.)

I was hoping for some sort of “comparative cider tasting” at the end, contrasting the sharp and sweet ciders, and maybe a few perries; but the only tastings they had were the products they made on-site, at the King Offa Distillery. Still, those were quite nice, and I was going to purchase a small bottle of cider liqueur, but our Customs officer reminded me that the limit is three bottles of up to 1.125 litres each, and I couldn’t get a 2 litre bottle if one of the bottles I took was 300ml. So I got a slightly bigger bottle.

We arrived at Hereford cathedral just in time for the daily tour, and I’m glad we did; I really enjoy hearing knowledgeable people talking about these places, and explaining why the different parts of the church look the way they do. (They also mentioned that the Cathedral was twinned with Canterbury Cathedral in Christchurch, and they had been sending money to support it.) And then we went and looked at the Mapa Mundi, the medieval map of the world that was part geography, part history, part bestiary and part philosophy. I think that it might be available to view online, but it was kind of cool to look at the actual treated calf hide in person. There was also a chained library, where the books were chained to the shelves to stop people stealing them; they had recently moved the library, and had found a bunch of medieval paintings untouched by the Reformation, which they had restored to their former glory.

We dropped Margie back at the motel to relax and edit photos, and then went off ruin-hunting; we found, more or less by accident, the site of an important castle and market town (abandoned during the Black Death and reduced to earthworks and a few walls); and then a much more complete castle, with a bunch of local kids running around in the grassy courtyard shouting, “Irontail! Pikachu is the best ever! Thunderbolt, blindey-blindey!”

The idea of having a ruined castle as your playground seems inexpressibly cool, but I guess it all depends on what you’ve grown up with… nah, I think that, no matter what, it would probably be pretty darn cool.

After poking around and taking a few pictures, we picked Margie up and returned to Hereford proper, and then ended up at a pub called the Spread Eagle for dinner. It was just outside the cathedral, and was excellent; if we had been staying longer, we would happily have gone again.

The next day we headed out to Wales. We stopped at the happiest place on Earth, Hay-on-Wye, and enjoyed getting our bearings, looking through the Castle bookshop, and finding out that elderflower sorbet is delicious. Then it was on to St Fagan’s, the Museum of Welsh Life – they have taken historic buildings from all over Wales and carefully put them back together in their original form, as well as adding some reconstructions (like an Iron Age village). There were some really interesting exhibits, like the row of four workers houses furnished as they would have been in the 1830s, 1880s, 1930s and 1980s, and there was a refurbished tearooms, where I might have accidentally ordered a cream tea that I didn’t really need.

Then we got to meet Meredith’s aunt, Sue, who had cooked us spag. bol. on her Aga, which she described as her pride and joy. (I think it would be a bit of a learning curve to cook on it, but she used it with practised ease.) We also met her old black lab, Nell, who didn’t take to me at all (she apparently has a grudge against males); and then it was off to the caravan.

To me, “caravan” conveys something slightly smaller than what we stayed in – two toilets, a master bedroom, shower, and a seating area separate from the kitchen and dining area. It was all compact, but it was closer to a small bach than a caravan, and we were very comfortable.

The next day got off to a slow start, but we managed to go for a drive on the moor (which involved waiting for large numbers of wild horses and semi-domesticated sheep and cows to get out of our way), and then to a very complete castle, Carreg Cennen, which had only been demolished in the 17th century (after a band of brigands had occupied the fort). There was still plenty to see — it had towers, a quarry where they had mined the limestone for mortar, a kiln where they’d fired the limestone, and a tunnel that turned into a limestone cave that wormed its way into the darkness. It was pretty neat, and at least two of my siblings will be getting related postcards.

We drove around a bit more, visiting the site of an Iron Age fort, and then we took Sue to a local pub, The Greyhound, as a bit of a thank-you for all she was doing. It was there, thanks to Margie’s apparently incomprehensible accent, that we accidentally discovered the idea of a cider shandy, which was actually very tasty indeed in the hot weather.

The next day, I made the mistake of taking up the challenge to walk out to Worm’s Head with Meredith. This was rather more rigorous than I was anticipating, with 20 minutes solid clambering over rocky-shore terrain before we arrived at the first island in the chain, not realising there was another scramble still to come. By the time we got back, I was in dire need of an ice-cream, which the National Trust shop was happy to provide. (I also leaned there that the opening scene of the second-season Dr Who episode with the cat-sisters tending a hospital had been filmed out there, and a chase scene from a recent Torchwood episode was filmed at the beach.)

We then went back to the caravan for lunch, and then decided to do something very local – we went to a village garden tour in Llanmadoc… which would have been easier if I hadn’t already exhausted myself on Worm’s Head. Still, it was very nice, and interesting hearing people talk about beekeeping and the like, as well as having a bit of a nosy. Then we went out to another Authur’s stone (which was apparently a pebble that he flicked out of his show which grew, and goes down to the sea to drink every midsummer night), and then back to the caravan for dinner.

Which brings us up to today, where we’re heading for Bath.

 

Written in a car going from York to Hereford, and a motel in Hereford

It’s funny what you can start to accept as routine, and even start to miss. For example, I miss having polite people regularly bringing me reasonably tasty food. (Margie was surprised that I described the food as tasty; but we flew on Singapore Airlines, and she has been flying with various budget companies, so we’ve had very different airline cuisine experiences.) But there is enough that I don’t miss about flying that the prospect of having to go back is hovering like a gathering storm-cloud at the back of my mind.

The wedding was a little stressful at the beginning (a little bit of rain in the morning, being told I needed to learn how to run a petrol generator, the bouncy castle people arriving when the groom and best man had disappeared to get petrol for the generator and wanting to get set up and paid); but it ended well, with the weather turning agreeable and the bridesmaids looking particularly lovely.

One of the bride’s friends was a folk musician (half of Playing Rapunzel), and played both for the bridal procession and after dinner; and then there was cake. A lot of cake. About six different kinds of cake, served by the happy couple (so they got a chance to say hello to everyone). And all in all, the couple did indeed seem very happy on the day.

The next day was cleaning up, and then Lydia (friend of the couple and native guide) took us off to Nemo’s for dinner. This is a pub next to an old quarry turned diving attraction, with things like cars, a double-decker bus and a small submarine in the water. C and I had traditional pub meals (chicken tikka masala & a chilli burger with cheesy fries), and got even more sunburnt than we’d managed the previous day.

Then it was one more night on the hated air mattress (which invariably deposited me on the floor by the end of the night), and then it was off to pick up our car, pick up some miscellaneous necessities (including a pair of shorts – there has been a heat wave!), and zoom off to Sherwood Forest (via a Services, so that we could see what they were like. This was a mixed day for C – she had the worst coffee she’s ever tasted in a Costa at the Services, but she managed to see her first squirrel in Sherwood Forest.

The oaks in Sherwood seemed big to me, but they’re apparently a lot shorter than they could be — all the good trees have been harvested, leaving only the lighting-struck and fungus-infected (meaning that they all much wider than they are tall). I don’t know whether that contributes to how creepily human some of them looked; I hope I managed to capture some of that in the photos I took. The forest itself reminded me of some of the relatively open wooded areas around Taupo; certainly not the tangled wilds that I imagined from our bush. But I don’t know what the woods were like at the time the legends were forming; and we weren’t there at night, in winter.

(The centre itself was fine, but very once-over-lightly from a history point of view; it’s aimed more at school groups, I would guess.)

Then it was on to York, checking into a nice little B&B called Holmslea Guesthouse. It was too late to buy or visit anything, so we had a walk around the old city instead; and then dinner, and back to plan more of our trip in the very hot rooms. We decided that we’d base ourselves in York for another night, but travel up to Thirsk (and the James Herriot museum), Martin (where Dith’s great-to-the-nth grandparent knocked down Captain Cook’s birthplace, and there’s a museum), and Whitby (a picturesque seaside town where Bram Stoker wrote part of Dracula, and which is featured in the novel), before returning to York.

For the second night, Holmslea had no vacancies, so we had to shift to Astley House. There was no Rick-rolling, but there were a few peculiarities – for example, our four-bed room consisted of bunk-beds and a normal double with a canopy tacked on, and the bathroom was small enough that you had to manoeuvre quite carefully to get on the toilet. But it was cooler, and the view was nice, and they let us dump our bags early; then we hit the road.

I’ve read a few James Herriot novels, and can vaguely remember All Creatures Great and Small (which I might have only watched because it had Doctor Who in it), but the James Herriot Museum was pretty good – I think it helps that it was aimed at a slightly older audience. It was an interesting mix of biographical information, recent rural Yorkshire history, and veterinary science.

The Captain Cook museum, on the other hand, felt slightly more at the Robin Hood end of the museum spectrum; it probably didn’t help that the Maori artefacts weren’t particularly impressive. And there was an odd collection on display about Rapa Nui (or Easter Island), and it’s depiction and status in popular culture, especially the moai. In many ways, this exhibit was interesting for the stuff it didn’t talk about – the fact that moai have been appropriated to mean “mysterious lush tropical Polynesian rest”, when Rapa Nui is pretty cold and bleak. Or that the many moai on display were fibreglass reproductions made by a company outfitting a tiki lounge. Or what might be going on, culture-wise, when people are making plush moai where tissue are dispensed from the nose.

Whitby was pretty neat. Again, we arrived too late to do anything but walk around; but the town was picturesque enough that this was pretty rewarding. I only regret that I didn’t get to buy any Whitby jet; they were famous as producers of Victorian mourning jewelery, and (with the Dracula connection) have apparently become a Goth pilgrimage spot; there was quite a few pieces of jewelery on display that looked like it had been designed to appeal to that subculture. But there were plenty of sightseerers of all types wandering about when we were there. I could imagine popping back for a wander again, preferably when the shops were open.

We grabbed something to eat from the co-op, and then went back and discussed what we would do next. The plan, as it’s now shaken out, is: two nights in Hereford, two nights with Meredith’s family in Wales, and then off to Bath, returning the car on the 7th.

(To complete our itinerary – we’ll do London things until we head over to Paris on the 11th, stay in Paris for a week, head to Ghent for two days, then on to Berlin for a few days, flying to Vienna, catching a sleeper train to Venice, another sleeper to Rome, and then flying to Edinburgh via Stansted. We’ll then get a train to visit my brother-in-law’s family in Oxenholm, then to Hay-on-Wye (via train to Manchester, train to Hereford, and bus). Then it’s a few nights to relax, and back to London for a few days to fly out. All accomodation and travel is booked up except for Rome, Edinburgh, and transport to Hay-on-Wye, so there’s not too much to do there.)

We spent today travelling around York, getting a very knowledgable tour from one of the embroiderers of York Minster, and staying rather too long at the excellent Castle museum looking at the Victorian street that you could wander through, displays on the history of cleaning, and the York dungeons. Then it was back in the car, and off to the Three Counties Motel in Hereford, where I now sit, being told to come to bed. So that is what I shall do.

(This is being posted the next day, from the lobby of our motel, just before we head off.)

Sitting in a House in Leicester

I don’t know why I was surprised by the amount of birdsong in the morning, but I was. Maybe it’s because I have this mental image of England that’s primarily urban; but C was woken in the middle of the night by foxes in the Clapham Common flat where we were staying, and she described them as “the pukeko of the northern hemisphere”… though you may need to have been woken up by pukeko to be able to appreciate the severity of this statement.

(I was completely oblivious to this; whether that is due to the fact that I’m a much heavier sleeper than C, or because of my 50+ hour sleep deficit, I’m unsure.)

We didn’t get into town very early, but we did manage to make our way to the tube station just as it started to pour down; it made me wish that I’d packed a raincoat with a hood, no matter how bulky I thought it was. As you can see in this picture, it did stop, but we were still a bit damp; but as you can see in this other picture, we didn’t let that stop us enjoying ourselves. (The reproduction of the Monet that can been seen in the background was made up of growing plants, by the by.)

Some of you may recognise the location from the pictures – we managed to wander around Trafalgar Square, St Martin-in-the-Fields church (where there was an interesting Big Issue photo exhibition in the crypt), and the National Gallery. We didn’t even skim the surface of the collection; we just wandered through the Impressionists and related painters, feeling slightly off-kilter as we looked at Monets and van Goghs, trying to read the character of people whose portraits have ended up being national treasures.

One of the things that struck me was how fluid paintings are – people getting medals added to their official portraits, busts of politically inconvenient people being painted over with curtains, paintings started in one style, abandoned, and then finished in a different style. I mean, you can change photographs, but I think that’s different somehow to changing paintings. Maybe it’s because there’s no “real” version of what you’re seeing, in some sense?

Then it was back to the flat, off to a pub dinner with the people we were staying with, and then home to go to sleep.

The next day we intended to try and sight-see before catching a train to Leicester. This was defeated by several factors: not the least of which was the left luggage people wanting eight and a half pounds for each bag they would be looking after.

But to be fair to the baggage people, one of the major issues was C trying to work out how to explain to her bank that she actually wanted to be able to use her credit card while overseas — as she said when she first got the card, and when she went into the bank in person to find out why it wasn’t working just before leaving the country, and to the credit card center (after being on hold for an hour) when she rang them after being told in the bank, “There’s no problem, but ring them to be safe.”

(Margie has since worked out that the bank seems to have, in the course of this discussion, cancelled the card that C actually has, and issued another, different card, which they presumably tried to send to our empty address, and have now activated… how they thought this would help is unclear. It is hard to imagine how they could have got it much more wrong, basically. Luckily, she is travelling with a bunch of people, is able to get money out on her EFTPOS card, and has some Travelex money cards; so if C’s mother is reading this, don’t worry, she’s fine and being assertive in her bank mail.)

We got to Leicester without hassle, and immediately plunged into the swirl of wedding prep. I somehow found myself tramping through an English wood with a practising ecologist, with hair full of leaves and arms full of ivy, as the light slowly faded. Other highlights include storing picnic baskets in a British yurt, and an English carvery lunch. (No pictures, I’m afraid; I’ll see if I can make up for it tomorrow.)

Anyway, that’s enough for now. I need to finish off the FAQ for dealing with our house, and get some sleep… since I don’t actually know how I’m getting to the wedding tomorrow. Next time, I’ll try to include a basic itinerary, insofar as we’ve decided anything.

Sitting in a London flat

I think that it’s fair to say that the time I drink the most orange juice is during international flights; I find it very hard to get comfortable enough to sleep during the flight, so I’m exposed to most of the rounds of juice that go past.  Not being able to sleep does mean that I get to browse the movie options — I finally got to watch The Adjustment Bureau, for example, and made a nod to my missed film festival by watching the somewhat depressing but good Bieutiful and the police thriller Dossier K (which I couldn’t remember the name of, and managed to find by looking for “Belgian police thriller Albanian mafia revenge”).

As a side note, I thought that The Green Hornet was interesting, not because it was a good movie (it was okay), but because of the central problem — how do you tell a story where a “supporting” character is basically more interesting, admirable and cooler than the main one?  The character Kato is the hardworking orphan who knows martial arts, invents everything, and makes everything; the Green Hornet character is the rich spoiled kid with daddy issues, who decides that they should become vigilantes and bankrolls everything.  I wonder whether exposure to the foibles of the wealthy makes “super-rich” a less acceptable super-power now than it was in, say, the ’50s?  There was plenty to like in the script (how they handled the female lead, for example), but it felt a little underbaked.

Huh.  I think that this blog makes me talk about films.

We were on Singapore Air for most of the flight, and I wondered whether the different colours of dress were based on personal preference, or indicated some sort of Star-Trek-esque hierarchy.  As it turns out, it’s a hierarchy thing, though I didn’t notice the different coloured ties on the men.

We worked on finishing packing and tidying the house through the day, then arrived at the airport just after 6pm in order to catch a 8:30pm flight out. (C’s parents gave us a ride out, and stayed with us until it was time to go; Mum & Dad and my youngest sister turned up to say goodbye, and Cath & Dylan popped past on the way to their flight, but I’ve been overseas before, and my sister got restless, so they didn’t stay the whole time.)  We then flew to Auckland, worried whether the baggage was checked through (a quick check of the claim tags showed that it was), and then flew 10 hours to Singapore.

We had a shower there, and still had six or seven hours to kill, so we did a bit of exploring, looking at the massive banks of orchids and butterfly room (pictures here, I’ll work out how to use Flickr properly later) and riding the sky train; and then we flew 13 hours to London.  An hour in a queue to check our passports and answer questions about our intentions (“How do you know the person whose wedding you are attending?”) and a brief dither about whether we needed to declare two tins of reduced cream (someone asked for the makings of onion dip; we thought about asking, but there wasn’t anyone in the customs room anyway) and then we were disgorged into the main Heathrow terminal.

At this point, I had been up for more than 50 hours, so it was a relief to see C’s brother at the airport.  He got us Oyster cards, guided us to the appropriate tube line, and got us to his flat, where we had a cup of tea and a Jammy Dodger (verdict: I prefer Shrewsburies at the moment, but could come around), and distributed the loot we’d been asked to bring across — peanut slabs, milk-bottle lollies, Rugby World Cup tops, etc.  We then had a chat, a shower, and crashed on the sofa bed for the night.

So — the beginning of the trip.  So far, so good.

2010 Film Festival, Day 16

My first film was at 10am in Te Papa with C. In The Attic: Who Has A Birthday Today is told with a mixture of stop-motion and normal film (with a touch of hand-drawn animation), and is about a society of discarded toys in the attic of a Hungarian home – but a forgotten Communist bust, served by a mixture of deformed toys, insects and a villainous cat, has decided to kidnap the doll Buttercup for himself.

There were many very cool bits, such as the pillows drifting out of drawers and floating as clouds (complete with feathers falling as snow), or when the foot of one of the toys accidentally catches on fire, and he hops around and then jumps on a mirror (which sizzles like a pool of water, and puts his foot out). Or how, when people go inside things like train cars (made of suitcases), we see drawn representations of them through the windows pasted on the side. The film manages to give quite distinct personalities to all the creatures, and I would be quite happy to revisit that world.

There were a couple of puzzling things that were never explained, but I don’t care – I liked this movie a lot.

* * *

After a quick, surprisingly good lunch at the Te Papa cafe, C abandoned me to the next movie: Alamar, the story of a boy going from Rome (where he lives with his mother) to live with his father and grandfather for a bit; his grandfather being a fisherman living in a house on poles on a coral reef in Mexico.

Some scenes were obviously staged, since there was only one camera-man – to get shots from multiple angles while they’re climbing up a pylon, they would need to wait while the camera-man clambered up past them, for example. But I doubt that the film-makers lured the alligator that lurked outside the house, waiting for scraps, or trained a cattle-egret to come and eat cockroaches from the walls.

There was very little explanation of what we were seeing – it wasn’t clear whether the father did this for a living, or was just visiting, though we did show him teaching his son the names for plants and animals, and scaling and gutting fish. We also saw a little of the boy’s life before and after in Rome.

Women were strangely absent on the islands and boats, and it was never explained why; and I would have liked to hear a bit of what the boy thought about the different ways of life. But I enjoyed the movie.

* * *

Then it was off to the Film Archive to see Secrets of the Tribe. There is an Amazonian tribe, the Yanomani, which is famous in Western anthropological circles as being the prototypical “untouched” society, and which has been heavily studied from the 60s onwards – but the title of the film refers to the the anthropologists, and the highly questionable things that some of them have done, both in describing the Yanomani, and to them.

I’m a bit conflicted about this film. I strongly feel that you cannot approach a field of science by saying, “This result would mean something horrible about humanity, so we can’t accept it.” In Freakonomics, Steven Levitt says that the evidence persuasively suggests that making abortions freely available is what led to the downturn in crime a generation later in American cities, rather than the innovative policing programmes it’s normally attiributed to: this wouldn’t be a pleasant truth, but the fact that it isn’t pleasant doesn’t speak to its truthfulness.

But – there’s strong evidence that the leading proponent of the idea that humans are animals too, and that biology needs to be strongly considered in anthropology (Napoleon Chagnon) was also involved in the Atomic Energy Commission research that, deliberately or not, seemed to make the measles epidemic among the Yanomani substantially worse; and he was an ally of Jacques Lizot (disciple of Levi-Strauss), who compiled a Yanomani dictionary… and brought in plane-loads of trade goods which he used to get tribesmen to masturbate him and allow him to have anal sex, and who had a small encampment of young boys near his research camp whom he exploited.

And on the other side… Chagnon’s thesis (that the Yanomani are a fierce people who compete because of competition for women) was challenged by various people, including Kenneth Good, who claimed that they were actually peaceful innocents. Good was then accused of paedophilia, because he married a Yanomani girl (who was of age in the tribe, but not by Western standards), but his books were very popular.

Anthropology and sociology do not come off very well here. Chagnon trumpets the need for statistics over opinion, but Good points out that many of the statistics he relied on to make some of his arguments are flawed (doing a nutritional study on a group so much in contact with the outside world that they had a store you could buy canned meat, for example). On the other hand, even flawed statistics can sometimes tell us something interesting.

The overwhelming impression is that both the Yanomami and the scientific community have not been well served by the antics of many of these people; and that many of them are more interested in justifying their actions than examining them.

It was a good documentary.

* * *

Then it was off to the Embassy for When You’re Strange, a documentary on the Doors. I hadn’t realised how much the Doors frontman Jim Morrison dominated my perception of the band; that is, I hadn’t known how talented the other musicians were, how many of the songs were written by them, and how much they were able to cover for his lapses. It makes me wonder what would have happened if they had been paired with someone who didn’t have such a destructive relationship with drugs and alcohol.

I enjoyed watching this, and felt that I came away knowing more than I did before; and it inclined me towards listening to more.

* * *

Next was Bill Cunningham New York with Jenni at Te Papa, the story of a a fashion photographer deeply embedded in the fabric of New York, yet curiously apart from it. He covers gala events, dinners and parties of the rich and famous; but he will not accept so much as a glass of water while he’s there, since he doesn’t want to feel beholden to anyone. He haunts the streets of New York, riding his bicycle in his blue street-sweeper smock, seeing what catches his eye, and what might be the next big thing. He goes to fashion shows, but sits on the side, because he wants to see what the outfits look like from all angles, and won’t take photos of what he doesn’t think people would actually wear. (He’ll also show when a designer is “inspired” by other creators, showing them side-by-side.)

He seems to be a genuinely nice man – frugal, modest, cheerful, funny, and smart. He doesn’t seem to care much what he eats, or where he sleeps, much to the despair of the estate agent tasked with finding him an apartment by the city (to replace the Carnegie Hall one filled with filing cabinets that he has lived in for decades, since they want to swap the resident artists for telemarketers). There was a moment of darkness, or perhaps sadness, when they asked him why he still went to church every Sunday; it wasn’t fully explained, but that’s as it should be.

I really liked this documentary.

* * *

Jenni & I ambled over to the Paramount for American: The Bill Hicks Story, which was about the career of the outspoken US comedian. It was interesting to see the arc of his work, from goofy character stuff as a teen, to the anger of his drinking and drug days, through the time when people came to see him as a spectacle rather than an entertainer, and then out the other side as a smart, angry and funny comic who was rather more successful in Britain than in his homeland, and who was frustrated that his country didn’t live up to its potential.

It felt like it was fairly honest about his limitations, and his family came across as good people; it is a real shame he died so young.

* * *

I only had one seven-movie day, so I was quite tired by the time I got to Triangle, a horror movie. It is hard to talk about the movie without giving too much away; I’m torn, because there are some bits that work pretty well at giving you a creepy feeling, but I felt that you had to work hard at it to make what people did make sense; and even now, I’m not sure I can make the world shown in the movie consistent with itself, and I think I’m pretty flexible-minded. It’s also quite gory.

I thought they had a pretty nifty idea, but it felt like it needed something.

2010 Film Festival, Day 15

I’m going to abandon my normal procedure, and talk about the last film I saw first. This was Presumed Guilty, and their website is http://www.presuntoculpable.org/en/. It was about a particular prisoner in Mexico, who was picked up off the street for shooting a man dead, despite not resembling the police sketches (which were conveniently lost from the file), having no gunpowder residue, not being named or even mentioned in witness reports until after being picked up, and being at work 40 minutes walk away (in the street, in full view of dozens of witnesses, all ignored) at the time of the shooting. He was never shown an arrest warrant, he never saw a judge (his verdict was signed by a court clerk), and the only reason they were able to get the case revisted a second time (in front of the judge who’s signature convicted him) is because it turns out that the defence lawyer who handled the case wasn’t actually a lawyer – he had a poorly forged photocopy of a law certificate. (At the end, the film reveals that this lawyer is still in practice.)

The Mexican justice system seems outrageous and shocking. No presumption of innocence, police (with their face concealed) that they sometimes exaggerate or make up evidence in order to ensure a conviction, a 97% conviction rate even though the majority of cases have no physical evidence, over two-thirds of the prisoners fed by their families, stories of prison guards feeling up the prisoner’s girlfriend before they’ll let her in to cook for him… it’s incredible that this is happening today, in a fairly modern country.

The sad thing is, you can kind of see how it’s meant to work – the police should only present people they’re convinced are guilty, and then those people should have to show that it’s reasonable that they’re not. But when police (and judges) are promoted on the basis of conviction rate, then it’s not surprising that you’ll get someone grabbed off the street; the most surprising thing is how much they didn’t care about making him look guilty. I mean, it would presumably be just as easy to change the file to show that he had gunpowder residue (or fire a gun next to them), or to include a sketch done after they picked him up; my worry would be that the only result of this movie would be police would start faking physical evidence.

This is a good movie, and made me angry about the situation. Their website is mounting a campaign to make filming of all interrogations and criminal trials mandatory, to give defendants a fighting chance.

I now return to the beginning of the day.

* * *

Towards the end of Genius Within: The Inner Life of Glenn Gould, one of the people interviewed said that he would be remembered five hundred years from now. I don’t know if it’s any indicator, but I didn’t have any idea who he was – I mean, I’d heard the name, but wouldn’t have been able to tell you that he was an exceedingly famous and controversial classical pianist, who broke onto the world scene with a electrifying version of Bach’s “Goldberg Variations”. I mean, I like what gets grouped into “classical music” well enough, and can tell a bad performance when I hear one, but I’m no connoisseur. However, this didn’t matter – they did a good job demonstrating what was different about him, and even showed the fingering technique he learned.

This was a good documentary about a man who was talented enough that his oddities and ticks were allowed to grow unchecked, which may have contributed to his relatively early death – for example, his hypochondria meant that he would see three or four doctors without telling them about each other, and then take all the pills they each gave him. They talked about how the ‘eccentric genius’ card was played up in the early years, but how he got odder and more controlling as he got older, wanting to script both questions and answers for interviews in his later life, for example. But he also did a bunch of interesting early stuff with recording equipment, and documentaries for the CBC.

I liked the film, and thought it was well done.

* * *

I only had ten minutes to dash from Te Papa to the Embassy, but made it in plenty of time to see I Am Love. It opened like a European film from the fifties, and had a weird, operatic feel to it. I liked Tilda Swinton as the wife, the daughter looked uncannily likely as a blood relative, and the gorgeous colours and sets were wonderful to look at. I wasn’t so keen on the music, which I found somewhat intrusive at times, and the movie itself was slightly slow. But there were plenty of neat bits: for example, I found the main character’s reversion (or re-flowering) to her Russian roots to be handled really effectively.

I’m not sure how I feel about the one of the main story elements, however. The heart wants what the heart wants, as they say, and they do a good job of making the husband look bad; but the way the wife handles the situation felt essentially selfish.

I enjoyed watching the movie, but I don’t think I’d seek it out again.

* * *

I hadn’t read the The Killer Inside Me was misogynistic, but I can see where that accusation comes from – the violence towards men tends to be distanced, either mediated by a gun or off-screen, whereas the camera shows us the beatings given to the two women. And the fact that one of them seems to accept and forgive it… well, that ranks up there with the song “He Hit Me, And It Felt Like A Kiss” on my creepy wrong-o-meter. But the first really nasty violence is up-close, personal, and directed towards a man… so I don’t know, there’s something going wrong, but it’s not misogyny (or at least, not just that).

Quite apart from the general unease with the events in the story, there were some characters that didn’t make any sense to me. Like the union boss, who seemed to be needlessly needling someone who he knows is a killer: what is he trying to achieve? And why did they allow him to go back to his house at the end?

It was certainly a visceral film, and if their message was something along the lines of “outward rectitude does not indicate inner goodness”, then they certainly managed it. And it was really weird watching Casey Affleck in this kind of role, which I’m guessing was the point. Oh, and it had very clever nod to the fact that it was a film towards the denouement; I wonder whether this was there originally, or added later to release tension before ramping it up again?

So… a good film, but I’m not sure I liked it.

* * *

Then it was off once again to the Film Archive to see the Homegrown mixed-bag: in this case, Homegrown: Quirky Stories. This was a fairly good batch, with only one film that fell into the “film scratches and free jazz” tedium (Tentacles of Dimensions, which apparently was based on a bunch of interviews). There were a variety of good to very good films, though there were some that were frustrating because they could have been better with just a little bit of story-tweaking – for example, The Witch And The Woodsman, which was a well-done fairy-tale (though perhaps too scary for the audience most likely to enjoy it). They did a good job setting up the rules of the world, and then using them cleverly; but toward the end they used a subtitle to indicate the passage of time, which felt really clunky. There was no reason that I could see that you couldn’t put a bit of grey at the male lead’s temples, have an older girl called by the same name as one of the young girls, and then you don’t need to read.

Empty Swan Song felt like someone’s (not particularly well thought out) fantasy of other teens paying attention to a classical pianist at a teen talent quest. Rock Paper Sissors was a odd dialogue where the three characters mentioned explained why they thought they were fighting, and negotiated an odd sort of truce… with a bonkers ending that I won’t spoil. Fruitless Journey was Scott’s Artic expedition told from the point of view of a banana with a belief in destiny… which I thought was very well done, though I’m a little uncomfortable mining that particular tragedy for humour. Tide was a really clever piece – just narration over the top of a shot of the back of a ferry as it scoots across a harbour, really well done.

Eat Your Cake; I’m a Vietnamese Refugee told it’s story effectively with folded paper and animation, overcoming the woodenness of it’s child actor. Nell the Narcoleptic was straight-up slapstick, though I was surprised at how little narrative it had. And finally, Michael and His Dragon was a short sketch of an Iraqi war veteran, which was effective, but felt a little shallow.

All in all, I’m glad I saw them.